Steeldive SD1970C – 44mm Automatic Dive Watch | NH35 | Sapphire
There is a reason this particular shape has become such a recognisable part of dive-watch design. The broad cushion-style case, short lugs and large rotating bezel give the SD1970C a considerable wrist presence, but without simply stretching a conventional diver into an oversized case. Steeldive takes that familiar 1970s formula and combines it with the sort of specification that has made the brand particularly popular at the affordable end of the mechanical-watch market.
The case measures 43.8mm across, so on paper this is certainly a large watch. The more important measurement, however, may be its relatively compact 46.8mm lug-to-lug length. Those short proportions help prevent the case from extending too far across the wrist, meaning the SD1970C should wear more manageably than the diameter alone might suggest. At 13.5mm thick, it still has the substantial profile you would expect from a proper dive watch, rather than disappearing beneath a shirt cuff.
Inside is the Japanese NH35 automatic movement. Automatic means that the watch winds itself through the movement of your wrist, although it can also be manually wound through the crown if it has stopped. The NH35 also includes hacking seconds, allowing the seconds hand to stop while setting the time more precisely, and provides approximately 41 hours of power reserve when fully wound. The NH35 has become one of the most commonly used movements in affordable mechanical watches, with good reason; it is a straightforward 24-jewel automatic, designed around reliability and ease of use rather than decoration or mechanical theatre. It runs at 21,600 vibrations per hour, giving the seconds hand the familiar mechanical sweep, and its widespread use also means replacement movements and servicing options are generally easier to find than they would be with something more obscure.
Above the dial is sapphire crystal with a clear anti-reflective coating. Sapphire is considerably more resistant to everyday scratching than standard mineral glass, which is particularly useful on a watch designed to be worn outdoors and around water. The anti-reflective treatment should also help reduce some of the glare that can otherwise make a dark dive-watch dial more difficult to read in bright conditions. Surrounding the crystal is a ceramic dive bezel with 120 clicks and unidirectional rotation. As is the tradition with dive watches, the bezel can only rotate anticlockwise, because an accidental knock can shorten, rather than increase, the indicated remaining time. Ceramic is also considerably more resistant to scratches than a conventional aluminium bezel insert and should retain its appearance well through regular use. Lume is another area where the SD1970C goes beyond simply placing luminous paint on the hands; the supplied specification lists green C3 lume across the dial and blue BGW9 on the bezel, creating a two-colour display in darkness. Beyond looking distinctive, the extensive luminous markings make sense on a watch whose design is fundamentally built around visibility in poor lighting.
The case is made from stainless steel and is fitted with a screw-down crown and screwed case back. Water resistance is rated to 200m, or 20 bar, putting the SD1970C into a very different category from the many 50m-rated everyday watches in this price range. It is well suited to swimming and regular use around water. The stainless-steel bracelet is fairly substantial and is secured with a milled clasp rather than one of the very light pressed clasps sometimes found on cheaper bracelets. The 20mm lug width is also a particularly useful choice because replacement rubber, fabric and leather straps are widely available if you want to change the character of the watch later.
The SD1970C makes a strong argument; an NH35 automatic movement, sapphire crystal, ceramic bezel, strong lume and 200m water resistance give it the sort of specification that would have been remarkably ambitious at this end of the market not very long ago. More importantly, those features actually suit the purpose of the watch rather than simply existing to make the specification sheet longer. The obvious trade-off is originality; the case shape and overall layout take very clear inspiration from Seiko's famous 1970s 6105 dive-watch design, often associated with the so-called 'Captain Willard'. Anyone looking for an entirely original piece of modern watch design would therefore need to seek inspiration elsewhere. For someone who wants their first automatic diver to feel substantial, capable and unapologetically tool-like, however, the SD1970C offers a particularly strong combination of proven mechanical hardware, practical materials and classic dive-watch design.
Included in the box:
Steeldive SD1970C watch, plastic presentation/storage box, tag and warranty card.
Worth knowing:
At 43.8mm across and 13.5mm thick, the SD1970C is a substantial watch. Its relatively short 46.8mm lug-to-lug length helps considerably with wearability, but buyers wanting a genuinely compact diver should still take the size into account.
The watch is rated to 200m/20 bar and uses a screw-down crown, making it considerably better suited to swimming and water use than most 50m everyday watches.
