BERNY AM134M/AM134MR – 41mm Automatic Dive Watch | PT5000 | Sapphire
Affordable automatic dive watches are hardly difficult to find, but the BERNY AM134M takes a slightly less predictable route than simply combining an NH35 movement with another familiar black dive-watch design. Its three-dimensional wave dial, curved sapphire crystal and exposed high-beat PT5000 movement give it considerably more character, while 200m water resistance and a proper rotating bezel keep the practical side suitably serious.
The case measures 41mm across, placing it firmly within modern dive-watch territory without becoming excessively wide. At approximately 15mm thick, however, this is undeniably a substantial watch. Some of that height comes from the curved sapphire crystal, but anyone looking for a particularly slim sports watch should be aware that the AM134M is designed to have noticeable wrist presence. The steel-bracelet version weighs approximately 167g, reinforcing that substantial character. It will feel considerably heavier than something on silicone or fabric, but for buyers who associate a dive watch with the solidity of a full stainless-steel case and bracelet, the weight may actually be part of the appeal.
Inside is the Chinese PT5000 automatic movement. Automatic means that the watch winds itself through the movement of your wrist, although it can also be manually wound through the crown after it has stopped. It also includes hacking seconds, allowing the seconds hand to stop while setting the time more precisely. The PT5000 is particularly interesting because it operates at 28,800 vibrations per hour, or eight beats per second, which is faster than movements such as the NH35 and Miyota 8215, which run at 21,600 vibrations per hour. The most notable practical difference is the seconds hand, which moves in smaller increments and therefore appears noticeably smoother as it travels around the dial. The PT5000 uses 25 jewels and provides approximately 38 hours of power reserve when fully wound. Whilst this reserve is shorter than some slower-beat alternatives, the trade-off is the higher operating frequency and smoother sweep. The architecture of the PT5000 is based closely on the long-established ETA 2824-2 format; the basic design follows one of the best-known automatic movement layouts in modern watchmaking.although it is Chinese-made rather than Swiss. A date display at three o'clock adds some everyday usefulness without overwhelming the dial. This is still fundamentally a straightforward hours, minutes, seconds and date movement rather than something filled with complications, which makes sense in a sports watch intended to be worn regularly.
Turn the watch over and BERNY leaves the movement visible through an exhibition case back. More unusually, the rear window is listed as sapphire rather than mineral glass. The fact that sapphire is used on both sides of the watch is an impressive specification at this end of the market. The movement itself is primarily functional rather than elaborately decorated, so this is not the sort of case back you buy to admire hand-finished bridges. What it does offer is the chance to see the automatic rotor and mechanical movement working underneath, which can be particularly enjoyable for someone buying their first automatic watch. Above the dial is a single-curved sapphire crystal which is significantly more resistant to everyday scratching than conventional mineral glass, and the curved profile gives the watch a little more visual depth than a completely flat crystal. Underneath it is one of the AM134M's more distinctive features; a three-dimensional wave-patterned dial. Rather than using a simple printed texture, the raised pattern creates changing highlights and shadows as the watch moves, giving the dial considerably more depth in different lighting. It is an appropriate detail for a dive watch without simply adding another function for the sake of it. The wave pattern gives the AM134M an identity beyond its specification sheet and helps distinguish it from the large number of affordable divers that follow much more familiar homage designs.
The hands and hour markers use C3 luminous material, producing a strong green glow after exposure to light. Good lume is genuinely useful on a dive watch rather than simply decorative, allowing the time and important markers to remain visible in darker environments.Surrounding the dial is a unidirectional 60-minute timing bezel. It rotates in only one direction so that an accidental movement can only reduce the indicated remaining time rather than giving the impression that more time is available. It is important to understand the function of a dive bezel; it allows you to monitor elapsed time by aligning the bezel with the minute hand at the start of a dive or any other timed activity. It does not measure how much breathing gas remains in a diving cylinder; that information needs to come from the diver's pressure gauge or dive computer. The bezel is useful outside diving as well; it can be used to time parking, cooking, exercise or anything else where you want a simple visual indication of how many minutes have passed.
The case is made from stainless steel and uses a screw-down crown; an important part of achieving the watch's 200m water-resistance rating. The solid stainless-steel bracelet continues the sports-watch construction and is secured with a double-locking fold-over clasp. The 20mm lug width is also particularly useful as it is one of the most common sizes available, so switching from the bracelet to rubber, fabric or another strap later should be straightforward should you wish to do so. A rubber strap in particular could substantially reduce the overall weight while retaining the dive-watch character.
Water resistance is rated to 200m, or 20ATM which makes the AM134M well suited to swimming, snorkelling and regular use around water, provided the crown is properly screwed down before getting it wet.
The AM134M makes its strong argument; an automatic movement, sapphire crystal and 200m water resistance are already a solid foundation, but the PT5000, curved crystal, sapphire display back and textured dial give it more mechanical and visual interest than many watches built around the same basic formula. The PT5000 is particularly significant; when comparing specifications, it offers something noticeably different from the NH35s and Miyota 8215s found across much of the affordable automatic market. Its 28,800vph frequency produces a smoother seconds-hand sweep and gives someone beginning to explore mechanical watches another movement architecture to experience. The design is also relatively distinctive for the price. The wave dial inevitably draws on a long history of ocean-inspired dive-watch design, but the AM134M does not feel like quite such a direct recreation of one famous luxury watch as many affordable alternatives.
For someone who wants their first automatic dive watch to offer more than just the standard NH35-and-ceramic-bezel formula, the BERNY AM134M is a particularly interesting option. The high-beat PT5000 provides the mechanical interest, sapphire on both sides adds an unusually strong specification, and the wave dial gives the watch an identity of its own.
Included in the box:
BERNY AM134M/AM134MR automatic watch and accompanying BERNY packaging and documentation.
Worth knowing:
The PT5000 is a 25-jewel Chinese automatic movement running at 28,800 vibrations per hour. That higher frequency gives the seconds hand a smoother appearance than common 21,600vph movements such as the NH35 and Miyota 8215. Power reserve is approximately 38 hours.
At approximately 41mm across, 15mm thick and 167g on the stainless-steel bracelet, this is a substantial watch. Buyers wanting something particularly thin or lightweight should take that into account.
