Steeldive SD1953C – 41mm Automatic Dive Watch | NH35 | Sapphire

There is perhaps no dive-watch design more instantly recognisable than this one. A rotating bezel, large luminous hour markers, steel bracelet and simple three-hand dial have formed the blueprint for countless sports watches over the decades, and the Steeldive SD1953C takes that familiar formula and combines it with a surprisingly strong specification for the money.

The case measures 40.5mm across, which puts the SD1953C in a particularly versatile position for a modern dive watch. More importantly, the 47.7mm lug-to-lug length means it should work on a wider range of wrists than a larger 43mm or 44mm diver. At 13.3mm thick, there is still enough substance in the case to make it feel like a proper sports watch, rather than something unusually slim or delicate.

Inside is the Japanese TMI NH35 automatic movement. Automatic means that the watch winds itself through the movement of your wrist, although it can also be manually wound through the crown if it has stopped. The NH35 also includes hacking seconds, allowing the seconds hand to stop while setting the time more precisely, and provides more than 41 hours of power reserve when fully wound. One of the most established movements used in affordable automatic watches, the NH35 runs at 21,600 vibrations per hour, producing the familiar mechanical sweep of the seconds hand. TMI officially rates it between -20 and +40 seconds per day, so it should not be confused with quartz accuracy, but that is to be expected for a mechanical movement at this level.

Above the dial is sapphire crystal. Sapphire is significantly more resistant to everyday scratching than standard mineral glass, and it is particularly welcome on a watch intended to be worn outdoors, around water or just for general wear without too much concern. Surrounding the crystal is a ceramic bezel with 120 clicks and unidirectional rotation. Ceramic is considerably more resistant to scratching and fading than the aluminium inserts traditionally used on many dive watches, while the unidirectional mechanism means the bezel can only rotate anticlockwise, which like all good dive watches ensures that an accidental movement cannot shorten the indicated elapsed time making you think you have more time remaining. Legibility is equally important on this style of watch; the large hands and hour markers are heavily lumed, allowing the dial to remain readable in poor lighting and the bezel markings are clearly visible, giving the SD1953C the appearance and functionality of a proper dive watch rather than simply borrowing the shape.

The case, case back and bracelet are made from 316L stainless steel. A screw-down crown and screwed case back help the watch achieve its substantial water-resistance rating of 300m, or 30 bar. This is considerably more capability than most owners are ever likely to need and makes the SD1953C well suited to swimming and regular use around water, provided the crown is properly screwed down before getting it wet. The bracelet is secured using a milled clasp rather than the lighter pressed clasps sometimes found on more affordable watches. The 20mm lug width is also extremely useful if you want to swap the steel bracelet for a rubber or fabric strap later.

The obvious trade-off is originality. The design pays homage to the Rolex Submariner; from the case and bezel proportions through to the dial and bracelet. Anyone looking for an entirely original design will therefore find more unique options elsewhere, but for someone who simply likes this particular style of dive watch, the SD1953C offers this time-honoured look at a fraction of the price. For someone looking for their first proper automatic dive watch, the SD1953C gets the fundamentals right; the 40.5mm case is eminently wearable, the NH35 dependable, and the combination of sapphire, ceramic and 300m water resistance gives it enough durability to be treated as an everyday sports watch.

Included in the box:

Steeldive SD1953C watch, presentation box, tag, warranty card and instruction manual.

Warranty:

Supplied with a 24-month manufacturer warranty.

Worth knowing:

Its 40.5mm diameter and 47.7mm lug-to-lug length make it relatively manageable for a modern dive watch, although the 13.3mm thickness means it will still feel noticeably more substantial than a conventional everyday or dress watch.

The watch is rated to 300m/30 bar and uses a screw-down crown, making it well suited to swimming and regular water use.